North of GILA HOT SPRINGS, NM
Where the heck is trail 729?
As I walked toward the Gila Cliff Dwellings visitor center, this was on my mind. Last night the group was talking about options, and this seemed like a good one, so I had my mind set on it today. I saw Mike (Bounce’s friend) and had him look over the trail map posted on the visitor center building. We found trail 729, which should take me through Little Bear Canyon to Jordan Hot Spring. Great!
I went into the visitor center to look around, and even though I saw the map outside I wanted to confirm which direction to go from here. They didn’t seem to know what trail 729 was, but gave me rough directions to Jordan Hot Springs, saying I can’t miss it.
I walked out of the visitor center and up the road to the right that climbed a hill. On top of the hill was a forest service guy unloading a pickup. He asked where I was going, and I said trail 729. He had no idea what that was. I told him the trail head is supposed to be just past TJ Corral, and asked how far to TJ Corral. He said it is back that way, pointing to the visitor center I just left. He told me to take a right at the bridge.
Back down the hill I went and took a right on the road before the bridge. Dead end. I then found a road on the other side of the bridge. This looked like the right road, but I didn’t see any indication of TJ Corral. I saw what looked to be a trailhead, but it didn’t seem to match what I had on the map. I continued down the road and got to Lower Scorpion campground. Too far, I passed it. I backtracked and found the sign to TJ Corral pointing away from where I came from. This is where the trailhead I saw earlier was. I walked up to the trailhead sign and it said trail 151. On my map, this trail took me way west of where I wanted to go. I figured that maybe 729 is a side trail off 151, but it was hard to tell on my map.
With no better idea, I went up trail 151. A ways up the trail, there was a trail that branched off to the right. The was a sign saying Little Bear Canyon, but nothing saying 729. That was enough evidence for me.
The trail tread was great as I climbed up and went down into Little Bear Canyon. It turns into a slot canyon as it meets the middle fork of the Gila River, and its pretty awesome. The towering cliffs overhead make it into a cathedral like experience.
When I got to the middle fork, my next destination was Jordan Hot Spring. According to CDT map maker Jonathan Ley, this is one of the highlights of the hike. Well, maybe years ago but not so much now. I could have missed it if I didn’t have my GPS. It is a spring coming down the north side of a mountain with 92 degree water, running into a little pool about half a foot deep and trickling into the middle fork. I did soak and it felt nice, but I also got covered with lots of slimy stuff floating around. Not nearly as nice as Gila Hot Springs the day before.
I saw 3 big groups of hikers and another threesome coming the other way. That’s the most hikers I’ve seen on trail so far.
The rest of the way up the middle fork offered so many great views I would be slowed to a crawl to see them all. It also offered countless slippery stream crossing, ankle busting fields of rocks, and lots of bushwacking trying to find trail tread. I eventually paused to cook up dinner and later saw Commando. He went on past and I followed for a bit until I found a great camp spot. I put up the tent and fly just before raindrops started to fall.